The sketch artists scattered along the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake have become an unmistakable feature of Hanoi’s tourism scene. For a small fee, these “lakeside painters” bring joy to visitors, capturing their moments in vibrant pencil sketches that reflect both skill and passion.
An open-air gallery by the lake
Hoan Kiem Lake has become a hub for portrait sketching, often described as the “largest center for portrait drawing” in Vietnam. The artists, ranging from seasoned professionals to passionate amateurs, bring their tools—easels, pencils, drawing pads, and pre-made sketches—to transform the lakeside into an open-air studio.
The day begins early for these painters, who arrive as morning light spills over the lake, ready to set up shop. By mid-morning, the area is bustling with activity, and by nightfall, the lakeside is alive with vibrant artistic exchanges. While landscapes may be the typical subject for artists, here the focus is on portraits, creating personal souvenirs for visitors.
Capturing moments, earning a living
Ngoc Tuan, a painter with over a decade of experience, recalls the simplicity of his early days. “When I started, portraits cost only 50,000 dong, but now it’s around 300,000 dong,” he shared. His sentiment reflects the changing nature of this craft, which has attracted painters of all ages. Among them are retired individuals, young art students, and even women who bring a fresh perspective to the trade.
“Your background or training doesn’t matter,” Tuan explained. “What counts is your talent and ability to create meaningful sketches.”
For many artists, the variety of faces they encounter adds a poetic touch to their work. “Every day brings a new story, a new personality to capture,” said Phung Quan, a younger artist drawn to the lakeside’s creative energy.
The actual sketching process takes around 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the complexity. While these works may not hold the depth of gallery art, they are cherished mementos for tourists, symbolizing an authentic slice of Hanoi’s culture.
The joy of being sketched
For visitors like Ngoc Phuong from Nam Ha Province, receiving a personalized sketch is an unforgettable highlight. “The portrait is so vivid that I almost didn’t recognize myself—it’s prettier than reality!” she joked.
Beyond the artistry, the act of sitting for a portrait becomes an experience in itself. Visitors can enjoy the tranquil surroundings, observe the bustling street life, and create lasting memories.
Challenges behind the smiles
Despite their cheerful demeanor, lakeside painters face a range of challenges. Bargaining is a frequent occurrence, with some customers refusing to pay if they feel dissatisfied with the likeness. “Sometimes they agree on a price, but later refuse to pay, saying the painting isn’t good enough,” shared Viet Tuan, a young painter. Weather also disrupts their work, with sudden rainstorms forcing them to pack up in haste.
Adapting to these hardships, some artists have learned basic English to engage with foreign tourists, enhancing their interactions and increasing the likelihood of tips. “Speaking even a little English can leave a great impression, and tips often follow,” said Le Phuong, an artist from Nam Dinh.
Some painters employ unconventional methods, sketching visitors without prior requests. “It’s a gamble,” Le Phuong admitted. “If they like it, they may pay. If not, I’ll settle for a smile.”
A brotherhood of artists
While competition among the artists is inevitable, camaraderie often prevails. These painters understand that their work exists in a different realm from professional artists who exhibit in galleries and sell their pieces for high prices. Yet, their shared goal of bringing art to life at the heart of Hanoi unites them in spirit.
Through their humble sketches, these “lakeside artists” breathe life into the vibrant culture of Hoan Kiem Lake, preserving memories for visitors while adding their unique strokes to Hanoi’s storied charm.
By Hoang Nam/ Hanoi Times
